The Einkawa neighborhood in Erbil, Iraq, is where the infidels live. Being a Christian district it is the only place in the city that serves alcohol publicly — in dark, fuliginous bars with crossed-out pistol signs on the door, meaning the bouncer will hold onto yours until you’re done drinking.

As we enter one such bar a man with thick black chest hair pushing through his half-buttoned shirt frisks us.

“Do you really have problems with people bringing weapons in here?” Rajo, my traveling companion, asks.

The man grins and without speaking opens a drawer. Within it are six confiscated pistols…