Chole / Nick Flynn

In 2002, for a month—maybe five weeks—I found myself on Chole, an island in the Mafia chain of islands, off the coast of Tanzania, in the Indian Ocean, south of Zanzibar. To get there we flew from the capital, Dar es Salaam, a short flight in a small plane, then an even smaller plane to the main island, then a Land Rover across the island to a beach, where we took a wooden sailboat—a jahazi—to Chole. The whole trip took a day…


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