Nowhere travel stories


Il Casentino / Jessica Dessner

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No time for discovery

without love of earthly things

half way there

hills press mystically into

annuntiare, young chestnuts

in a slight enthusiasm of musky honey

dead east from Florence

a lichen on the map

we spare weakness

at the porcini restaurant

half full, boar ragu to share

with a road crew

drunk on signs

could a boar tear through?

the soul widens for all pines

scattered with sheep

softly abandoned cascina

yesterday’s austerity

stucco for the scorpions’ document

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Brave the curves, roll up the windows

August two storms in one week, a trick

when not the dessicated gold

of sentimental fields going light

right up to the fence

Tuscan greens are Corot’s

as if powdered

the difference here

wet off the Adriatic

green lacquered black

at the forest birth of the Arno

not much to that first watery pulse

over an agony of pebbles

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The farm country kicks out

where the land was left

to improvise fir and beech

timber to scaffold the Duomo

ships for the Medici war views

and competing pamphlets for most

ancient European lack of brambles

forest health speaks for Benedictine ideals

forester monks to clear the dead wood

a thousand years ago San Romualdo

scaled a million choking

leaf litters not suitable

for Camaldoli heaven, in eremo

he thinned the primeval jumble

now a disturbing charm

to the beech after beech

I never guessed enchantment

was the work of an axe


Whose silhouette on the plaque

Paolo Uccello nato a Pratovecchio 1397

to a barber-surgeon, two tasks for the razor

who can resist action in the vanishing point?

I’ll check on the Hunt to return here later

a mostly leafy talisman for the hounds’ way

in then up Apennine slopes, volumes

working green wholesale into every instance

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Through the windshield, elation

for the poor sinner in sight

of today’s Romanesque surface

stone oddities on capitals

proportional to your cramp of delight

the dimness in Pieve di San Pietro a Romena

has a divine theme, tests the measure

of my belief’s fitness, get thee behind me

Satan, everything I’ve learned through desire

makes my doubt proficient

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On its cliff, the crescent moon of La Verna

I’d like to remove the hermitage roof

see the fits of motionless order

we pray apprehensively

in the grotto of St. Francis

lest stigmata appear in our ideas

Pratovecchio Centro Storico

shape of an eye

I hear the kids talk of leaving

but the markets’ heartbreaking lettuce, tomatoes

for sugo di pomodoro, non mangiare

senza cottura, the red a comedy

of surplus, zuchinni

so engaged with provincial life

they grow a foot in three days

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Heat packs in under the portico

the original mom-and-pop shops

old men, some fresh, some prone to break

in sempiternal card games everyone in resilient

disagreement, the town in tact

sons, daughters, the whir of the slicer

Giubbino Alimentari for paper thin

salame al finochietto, gone

before I understand it’s made here

a sticky schiacciata con l’uva

the grapes improve you over time


Roll call in the piazza, crows

dive for scraps under the roses

we find a bench

panini and espresso, no pretension

to tourist sputter, no Duccio

Michelangelo in the background

and not the finest hot rods

to go with asymmetrical bastardo hair gel

girls’ short shorts nocciola frappes hand in hand

with signs of Dante’s exile to wilderness

I guess it was here he turned his back

toward Florence and wept

though the stars return brightly

as if remembered

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Click to hear Jessica Dessner speak about  Il Casentino.

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JESSICA DESSNER is a poet and visual artist, as well as a semi-dormant dancer and choreographer. Her poems have appeared or are forthcoming in Sal Mimeo, La Petite Zine, The Invisible Stitch, H_NGM_N, Gerry Mulligan, Maggy, EOAGH and Free Verse. Her chapbook, Wit’s End with Bric-a-Brac was published in 2006 by Green Zone. Her debut as a visual artist took place in the fall of 2009 in New York City, at the 92Y Tribeca Gallery with a show of her drawings for the Sufjan Stevens/Osso album, Run Rabbit Run. Jessica holds a BA in Dance from Barnard College/Columbia University and a MFA in Poetry from the New School. Look for new series of her drawings in October at Country Club, in Cincinnati, Ohio and next June at bird in Williamsburg, New York.